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[Scott D]

After running 40 plus feet around a boat cover with no problem, the thread starts fraying at the needle. I'm using an Oregon #22, switched to a 20 to see if that would stop it, NOPE. I started to think about the actual needle and if there is a difference or a better one to use. The machine came with them, so I stuck with them. Nothing below is causing the issue.

[Revv Up]

Most fraying problems I have come across were fixed by

1) Check thread path (has the thread flipped over something and is dragging)

2) Oil and clean, especially the bobbin and hook assembly... check carefully for burs in this area.

3) Check timing..... my Juki rarely goes out of time by my Yakumo slowly slips out over time, especially when hammering through multiple lawyers.


22 sounds like a big needle that should let up to 138 thread slide through pretty easily.

[Scott D]

Everything is clean, there was a small bur from a needle strike and the was polished off, super slick now. I picked up some SCHMETZ's and will give them a try. from what I've read these are designed for thicker material, more of an elongated hole for the thread and better for higher stitch speeds, time will tell, I'm putting one in right now.

[Revv Up]

Let us know how it works out. I only use Schmetz but only because it what the place I like to deal with sells, high speed is definitely not a problem for me.

[John]

Some times when sewing super long sections like that the needle can get really hot and melt the thread and cause this fraying problem. Ive actually burned my finger on a needle that got so hot once.
They actually sell needle coolers for this but its not necessary if your not doing these long stitches every day.
https://www.vortec.com/thread-guard-nee ... r/overview

[BigRig]

You learn something new here everyday!